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Tubulars compared to Clinchers
A question I have been asked more than 500 times over the last 20 years in sport is about Clinchers and Tubulars (also known as sew ups) & instant sealants.
Here are my real life experiences of Tubulars compared to Clinchers.
Don’t forget I have cycled enough miles in my career to have gone around the world 5 times on my bike.
Tubulars
Tubulars have much higher pressures than clinchers so this one aspect can reduce the chance of getting a puncture.
Many Tubulars now have puncture technology which hardly compromises performance.
Some brands of tyres are actually perform better as a tubular than clincher even with a light weight latex inner tub.
Resistance
Rolling resistance is not just about tyre pressure but also rider body weight how smooth or rough the road surface is.
A big factor often over looked is that rolling resistance is reduced when using latex inner tubes and soft supple casings so it is important to make sure that if using a tubular that there is no movement of the rim and tubular (Tyre or Tire)
Aerodynamics
If fitted correctly (they run around the tyre in a straight line) Tubulars tend to be more aerodynamic if the size of the rim and tyre match not if the tubular is too narrow for the rim.
Having ridden many long distance events I have found that Tubulars are much more comfortable and responsive.
Cost
Tubulars appear to be more expensive than clinchers like for like performance.
Tubular & Clincher compounds
The rubber compound used by manufacturers is very similar so it is hard to come to conclusion which one is better clinchers or Tubulars at this time.
Foreign object
If the tyre has been cut or has glass pin or thorn inserted it can be removed much easier from a clincher. Removing an object may cause the air to come out.
In my opinion clinchers are less likely better to use if cut than Tubulars.
Performance
Tubular rims are lighter than clinchers so help have less weight to move when climbing and increasing speed.
Wear & Tear
I have not noticed any difference in wear of the clinchers compared to Tubulars regarding the number of miles. Neither type of tyre (tire) wears out quicker
Weight
I have investigated and found that the most expensive clinchers are heavier than Tubulars often by 200 grams. The weight of a tyre is crucial because it is at the perimeter and is rotating mass so affects the effort required more than the weight of the frame. So Tubulars are in my opinion much better
I have used Tubulars for more than 15 seasons training and racing which includes about 150 races world wide on many different conditions (cold and extreme heat) and road surfaces & only had 3 punctures during that time cycling on some of the worlds worst road surfaces.
Positives using Tubulars
They are lighter than clinchers.
With higher inflation air pressure reduced rolling resistance helps increase speed for the same effort
I have only punctured twice with Tubulars and both times have been back on the road within 90 seconds both races had I used clinchers my race would have been over if I had used clinchers see examples below
(a) Cold hands made have not allowed me to remove clincher tyre
(b) Would probably have taken 2-3 minutes to change
Tubulars appear to be safer to ride to finish on a flat tyre if you have less than 8 miles although I have known some people to have ridden 20+ mile son a flat tubular and NOT ruin their carbon rim. (I have ridden 4 miles on a flat front
Much quicker to change- pull off tubular and put on new tubular and use a C02 cartridge.
I can change a tubular in less than a minute using a C02 cartridge and some of that time lost can be gained cycling back to transition.
I find a tubular can be much harder by using a C02 cartridge than with a clincher possibly as a result that Tubulars can take higher pressures.
Unlike a clincher you risk pinching the tyre when replacing or if you still have debris in tyre you risk another puncture this does not happen if you completely change tubular.
Harder pressure unless you use light weight track Tubulars have the same change of puncturing as clinchers.
Most explosions in transition area from heat on the tyres comes from clinchers.
No need to carry tyre levers.
Negatives using Tubulars
Expensive to repair, sometimes you have to throw away the tubular but in reality Ok for a spare.
Instant sealants to fix a flat (puncture)
Using Pit Stop (or similar instant sealant) works best without a valve extension (extra valve that screws onto existing valve needed for deep section rims.
Care needs to be taken when cornering after replacing a tubular on the road due to glue and tub tape is only designed to be used once. I have personally used re glued rims and tub tape more than once without a problem however this is Not recommended due to the RISK of tubular rolling off and resulting in an accident.
Time lost on corners while taking it easy often out weighs time changing tyre and getting back on the road compared to clinchers.
IronMate Tubular tips
Use tub tape as you can remove punctured tubular and leave tape on rim to allow new tubular to stick and get you back safely to the finish line.
I use Velox Jantex tub tape, if you are doing a long distance event or one that is technical (corners and fast descents then stick tub tape on the spare tubular but do not remove the outer covering (side that sticks to the rim) until you are ready to use it.
It will only take 5 seconds to remove before fitting and the tubular will stick to the rim more securely.
I suggest you then use new tape or glue to stick tubular on more securely after getting home.
If you use glue I prefer to allow at least 12 hours for the tubular to stick to the rim (tyre pumped up hard) before riding.
Pre stretch new Tubulars onto spare rim if you have one) rim before sticking to
I always carry 2 Tubulars in races if the road surface is not that great.
I prefer not to have an instant sealant inside tyre a this makes the tyre heavier.
Test show its better to carry 2 tubular than have sealant in the tyres you are using.
Clinchers V’s Tubulars
Heavier to ride.
Unable to inflate to the same high pressure as Tubulars which helps reduce rolling resistance.
Easy to pinch inner tube when replacing.
Clinchers tend not to be as comfortable to ride as Tubulars.
Clincher tips
Make sure you use quality cloth tape to protect the inner tube form the spokes.
Use talcum powder inside the tyre (tire) to reduce friction.
Avoid over inflating as this can cause the inner tube to explode especially if the temperature is above 85 degrees.
Always check the inside of the tyre (tire) first gently then second time with your finger for any glass or thorns that may be imbedded.
I use Tubulars for racing and clinchers for training.
15 years ago Tubulars were much better than clinchers now the gap between both is much smaller.
Using Pit Stop or other cycle tyre sealants
Designed to repair and inflate a tyre that has a puncture.
I have many during mountain biking and they have always worked.
Best to completely change when back at home although I known several riders to keep using the tyre because I may still work on future tiny punctures/flats
If the hole is too big most sealants will not seal the hole so always carry a spare inner tube or tubular.
From personal experience they work best without a valve extension.
They repair then inflate the tubular or inner tube of the clincher but be warned they are not really designed to also inflate it back to being hard. Some manufactures claim up to 6.5 bar which is enough to be able to continue faster than a flat.
You may also need to use a pump to put in more air.
Work with both Presta and Schrader valves without an adaptor but practise first at home so you are comfortable with how to use one. Most brands only have enough in a can for one use.
Mistakes to avoid using pit stop or other cycle instant repair sealants.
Unlikely to be successful if using a valve extension.
The added weight to a tyre (tire) is 15-20g once you have used pit stop or similar instant latex sealant and I have found it noticeable.
I consider it good to use in the winter adds extra weight (more specific than weight training) and if you get a puncture you can carry on and not get cold.
Read the instructions. How to use an emergency sealant successfully.
You must rotate the valve so it is at the top (12 o’clock position).
Place the nozzle onto the valve and push firmly.
The sealant will enter the valve into the tyre (tire) & fill the tube and block the hole.
You must ride immediately or spin the wheel fast (not as successful as the first option)
Continue to cycle because it can take 1-2 kilometre for the sealant to fully seal the hole.
Expect air to leak from some holes straight away to seal hole then after a few days.
I have not found any sealant so far to work on slits to tyres (tires) the size of a finger nail.
You should not rely solely on pit stop or other sealants.
I strongly recommend you also carry a mini pump or a C02 cartridge that allows you to put in small amounts of air because if you totally inflate a puncture with sealant there is a risk that you will force open the hole so large that the inner tub explodes.